THE ART OF TABLE LAYING IN HISTORY AND CULTURE



The Pasta Factory Owner, 19th century. Rome, Museo Nazionale delle Paste Alimentari

Macaroni Eaters, 19th century. Rome, Museo Nazionale delle Paste Alimentari

Macaroni Seller, 19th century. Rome, Museo Nazionale delle Paste Alimentari

Top: Alberto Sordi in a scene from the film “An American in Rome”, 1954

The consumption of dried pasta in Italy is more recent than commonly believed. Introduced by the Arabs in the 9th century, pasta was an expensive food for a long time and was not commonly eaten at the table of the Italians. It was only in the 18th century that it became more widespread and Naples soon became established as both the centre of production and consumption.
Pasta was generally cooked, sold and eaten in the streets. The vendor arranged his kitchen by using a large bottomless barrel filled with stones, with an opening for air in the side to provide an efficient draught. Burning coals were placed on the stones, with the pan of water on top of them to cook the macaroni. A simple table, sometimes covered by a modest cloth set with bread and wine, provided a support for the plates piled high with spaghetti. There were naturally no forks. People skilfully picked up small clumps of pasta with their fingers and, tilting their heads back with dexterity, dropped them into their open mouths from above. As time went on, this arrangement was perfected by replacing the barrel with a wooden unit and an attractive, colourfully striped awning held up by two sticks, providing much-needed shade for regulars who often ate standing up.
Dried pasta won over the masses and noble classes alike. King Ferdinand of Bourbon was a huge fan, consuming enormous quantities of pasta, even during the interval at the theatre, devouring it without using any form of cutlery.