THE ART OF TABLE LAYING IN HISTORY AND CULTURE



Silver salt cellar, 19th century

Frédéric Delair Slicing the Duck at La Tour d'Argent Restaurant in Paris, late 19th century. Private collection

Top: Il Sodoma (Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, known as), St Benedict Having Obtained Ample Flour and Fed the Monks, c. 1505, detail. Asciano, Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore

The salt cellar is the container for salt placed on the laid table, unlike the salt shaker, which is generally elongated in shape, rather like a small mushroom or a tower, and filled with finely ground salt and grains of rice to prevent it from getting damp. An essential feature in restaurants and canteens, the salt shaker has holes at the top and is turned upside down to shake salt over the food. It is therefore more hygienic than the salt cellar, from which many people serve themselves with their hands or the tip of their knife, despite rules of etiquette prohibiting this. Today, the salt cellar is a decorative element on the most elegantly laid tables. A beautiful salt cellar or, better still, two salt cellars arranged symmetrically, embellish the table and should be equipped with small spoons made from the most varied materials, such as horn, glass, mother-of-pearl, crystal, ceramic or stainless steel. However, it is worth noting that etiquette recommends diners do not add salt to the dishes they are served, as this could be considered impolite to the hostess, suggesting that the food is not to their taste or incorrectly seasoned. Making negative comments, even if not explicit, about dishes is not good manners and demonstrates the guest's lack of sensibility.